Sacré-Coeur Paris and a heavenly hotel

Sacré-Coeur © Wazim Photos

Discover Sacré-Coeur Paris and its secret, sacred hotel in the very heart of Paris, says Janine Marsh.

There is a place to stay in Paris that is no ordinary place to rest your head. It is, in fact, a hôtellerie attached to one of Paris’s most famous churches – the great Basilica of Sacré-Coeur.

The hill of Montmartre has been a place of worship since long before anyone dreamed of the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur. Millennia ago, Gallic druids claimed the top of Montmartre to practice their rituals. When the Romans arrived, they chose this spot to build temples honouring their gods Mercury and Mars. It’s not hard to understand why – it’s the highest natural spot in Paris.

*View from the top of the hill where the Basilica is perched*

The Roman-Byzantine style Basilica is relatively new – the first stone was laid in 1875, and the Basilica was consecrated in 1918. It was conceived as a symbol of penitence, trust, hope and faith after the Prussian Army defeated the French army in 1870, and designed by architect Paul Abadie. The beautiful white stone used in the construction came from the Souppes-sur-Loing quarry in Seine et Marne. It’s essentially a “self-cleaning” stone and Paris’s Arc de Triomphe and Pont Alexandre III are built from the same material. The people of Savoie funded a giant bell; at 19 tons, it’s still one of the heaviest in the world and was dragged up the hill by 21 sturdy horses in 1895.

Around 11 million people visit Sacré-Coeur annually making it the second most visited church in Paris after Notre-Dame. But just a handful are aware of the hôtellerie (formerly the Maison Éphrem), a guesthouse run by Benedictine Sisters, whose community is close by.

The Basilica is a “Sanctuary of Eucharistic Adoration and Divine Mercy” where an unbroken chain of prayer takes place, an idea proposed by Mother Marie de Saint Pierre, foundress of the Benedictine Sister’s Montmartre community. The first sisters participated in the prayer of adoration on 1 August, 1885 and ever since, pilgrims have come from around the world to participate.

A spiritual stay – and one of the most unusual hotelleries in Paris

Just a few feet away from Montmartre’s vibrant cobbled streets and squares lined with gift shops, historic restaurants, museums and bars, the guest house has 170 beds (dormitories and bedrooms) in a grand building attached to the Basilica. Rooms are available to those who wish to pray, visit as part of a pilgrimage and join in the eucharistic adoration, day and night. It is a unique experience for the faithful and the spiritual. I booked a room via the online reservation site (I recommend you book in advance), and received confirmation a few weeks later.

As hotel rooms in Paris go, it’s cheap, but if that’s what you’re looking for, this place is not for you. The whole point of staying here is to take part in the prayer relay and join in the night-time adoration, spending at least one hour of prayer or silent contemplation, a custom that has been in place non-stop for 140 years (even during wartime). When you reserve a stay at the Sacré-Coeur hôtellerie, you enter into an unwritten agreement that must not be broken.

When you book in at the reception desk, you’re directed to a whiteboard to mark the prayer hour of your choice between 11pm and 7am. I noticed that the 11pm shift straight after 10 O’clock Mass seemed to be very popular! I chose the 5am shift, dropped my suitcase off in my room and returned to the streets of Montmartre to soak up the sights. The receptionists speak enough English to help you if you don’t speak French, and there are written notes in the rooms explaining the prayer ritual in both English and French. You can order an evening meal and breakfast for a small additional fee. It’s simple fare but a great way to meet your fellow guests who come here from all around the world – pilgrims, friends, school groups, solo, young, old, believers, and non-believers who are interested and willing to participate and pray in their own way, if not the traditional way.

Before you take your place in the church, you’re invited to a lecture by the nuns to learn more about the church and the Catholic religion, though it’s not obligatory. You’re also invited to the 10 O’clock mass. The singing of hymns by a choir with voices like angels, the haunting notes from the huge pipe organ, itself a national monument, and the chanting of prayers combined with the most incredible acoustics are goosebump moments, whether you believe or not.

When the Mass ended, the last visitors left, and the grand doors were closed. The church fell silent. I headed to my room for a few hours of sleep.

Overlooking the Basilica’s private garden, the room was small and sparse but comfortable, consisting of a single bed, desk and chair, shower and sink, and a simple crucifix on the wall. Loos are dormitory-style in a block. When the alarm went off at 4.30 am, I was surprisingly alert, thanks to the sense of adventure and unusualness of the situation.

I tiptoed along the deserted, dimly lit, noiseless corridors, and crossed a secret passage to enter directly into the hushed church in which there were three other people sitting silently. The only sound was the wind which howled around the top of the hill. Taking photos in the church is prohibited, but it is extraordinarily beautiful in the dead of night, the ceiling above the altar—one of the largest mosaics in the world—lit by flickering candles.

I thought that an hour of silent meditation would be difficult, but it passed so quickly in the peaceful silence of the cavernous church that I was startled to realise that an hour and a half had gone by as I let my mind wander to those I have lost, my mum and dad, my sister-in-law and father-in-law, and I thought of friends who are suffering from illnesses and hoped for them to find peace.

It was a unique, spiritual, strangely serene and comforting experience, and a very unusual way to discover authentic Paris.

Find out more about the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur: sacre-coeur-montmartre.com

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com