France is so diverse in its culture, history, heritage, gastronomy, and landscape that it would take a lifetime to experience it all. But Janine Marsh says there is a way to see a lot of France in a slow and relaxing way in just a few days as she takes a Seine river Cruise from Paris to Normandy.
Slow cruises all over France
I’m hooked on CroisiEurope cruises in France. You stop at a different port every day, and this French family-run firm knows just how to share the very best with you. On every cruise you’ll visit the most historic places but you’ll also discover the hidden gems and authentic sites that visitors from outside of France rarely get to know about. You’re spoiled with gourmet French cuisine and a superb French wine list – with a side order of joie de vivre. CroisiEurope operates on rivers and canals all over France and even sails from Nice to stop off at historic ports all around the island of Corsica. The barges and boats are bespoke, designed for the canals and rivers of France, not huge and crowded, and all staff speak English and French (and frequently more languages). They’ll always offer English speakers the chance to sit together at meals – and it’s surprising how quickly you can make friends, making this an excellent option for solo travellers like me.
Cruise from Paris to Normandy
One of my favourite cruises takes in two giants of France – Paris and Normandy. Choose from 5-day to 7-day cruise offering a variety of visits, including Versailles or Monet’s garden, explore the ancient, cobbled streets of Rouen and impressionist painters favourite, lovely Honfleur, and places such as Étretat and historic les Andelys. It’s a great way to see a lot in a short time, to visit the most fabulous parts of France, to be fed like lords, and to relax and take in the gorgeous scenery along the Seine.
On board my 5-day cruise from Paris to Honfleur and back, there were Brits, Americans, and Canadians, plus Swiss, Spanish, Belgian, Canadians, and, of course, French. They were a ix of young and old, and the staff went out of their way to make sure everyone was included (a lady in a wheelchair on our tour joined all the excursions with a bit of help). All excursions always included English-speaking and French-speaking guides.
The best of Paris and Normandy
Our ship sailed from Paris in the evening so that we could enjoy the city’s sparkling lights at night. It was quite a different vibe from the daytime: an enchanting tableau with monuments lit up, the lights of apartments glowing softly as we sailed past Notre Dame and historic monuments galore, and an unbeatable view of the sparkling Eiffel Tower, the lights reflected in the river, causing every passenger to sigh.
The following day, we docked in Poissy and took a short coach ride to the Palace of Versailles to stroll the gardens and see the magical fountain display. There are ornate waterfalls in secret groves, balletic spurts of water set to classical music, and gently tinkling fountains with stunning statues decorated in gold and gilded flowers. Calm pools are surrounded by sculptures designed by famous palace architect Jules Hardouin Masart. This is a water garden fit for the King, who once loved to wander here. For 350 years, these water gardens have thrilled visitors. Louis XIV, the Sun King, was obsessed with them. He even wrote a book about how to tour the gardens called Manière de Montrer les jardins de Versailles (How to Present the Gardens of Versailles), which he annotated by hand. Like the vast gilded palace, the gardens showed France’s (the King’s) glory and might. They are as impressive now as then, breathtakingly beautiful and incredible feats of engineering.
Sailing on, we arrived at the charming port of Honfleur, a 2-minute walk from the centre. After a guided tour we had plenty of free time to explore this lovely little town which has oodles of quaint charm. Artist Eugene Boudin was born here, and the museum named after him has a fine collection of paintings. There are cosy bistros, antique shops and wiggly cobbled streets aplenty. The heart of the town is the old port from where Samuel de Champlain was sent to colonise Canada, founding Quebec in 1608. The Vieux Bassin, the inner harbour first created for Louis XIV, is lined with cafés, bars, restaurants and art galleries. It’s one of the best places in town to sit and watch boats going in and out, listen to the bells chime in the town’s church and enjoy the wonderful light.
There was also time for a visit to Étretat on the Alabaster coast, visiting the lovely little town, which retains its picturesque fishing village vibes and a wander along the stunning beach. It’s also the birthplace of legendary Arsène Lupin, famous French literary rogue (and lately star of Netflix!) and you’ll spot references to him everywhere.
On an autumn day under an azure blue sky, the cobbled streets and charm of Honfleur and the white rocks of the rocky coastline at Étretat gave a glimpse of just why this extraordinary part of Normandy lured Monet and his peers to capture its beauty in paintings over and over.
Leaving Honfleur at dusk to sail under the incredible Pont de Normandy, aperitifs on deck as the sun dipped below the horizon, is one of those moments I’ll never forget.
The following day, we docked in the port of Rouen, just a few minutes walk from the centre of the medieval district with its half-timbered houses. There was ample time to see the sites – the soaring cathedral with its flamboyant facade, the 14th-century grand clock, the Joan of Arc church, a tribute to the young girl who became a saint and who was burned at the stake in Rouen in 1431.
Sailing back into Paris before sunrise – I gazed out of my large cabin window at the the lemon glow of early morning street lights, filtered by trees alongside the river, and admired the sights of the city coming to life.
Those 5 days away felt like it had been a lot longer – in the best way possible.
Find out more at croisieurope.co.uk
Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com
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