Known as the ‘pearl of France’ Menton French Riviera in winter is just about perfect – think festivals and fabulous weather says Janine Marsh.
“My grandparents told me that Adam and Eve planted the lemon trees here” said a man standing next to me at the top of a hill in Menton, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea above a swathe of terracotta rooftops. I must have looked sceptical as he added, “They say that Adam and Eve took not just an apple from the Garden of Eden but a lemon. And when they arrived here, it was as beautiful as paradise, so they stayed a while and the seeds from their lemon grew here, cherished by the soil, the sun and the sea air.” He laughed and spread his arms wide looking out over the town below us. I could see his point – this little corner of the French Riviera is enchanting.
Menton is on the border with Italy. Here the Alps drop down to the sea whilst providing protection from the wind for the ancient coastal town at their feet – and that gives Menton a unique microclimate. It lured British aristocrats, including Queen Victoria, to spend their winter breaks in the sun here in the 1800s. The legacy of their time includes several exotic gardens, and celebrity graves including William Webb Ellis, inventor of the game of rugby in 1823 and artist Aubrey Beardsley, who, like many Brits, came for the sunshine and fresh air, believed to be a cure for Tuberculosis. These early wealthy tourists also inspired the architecture of Menton, and several palace-like former hotels remain in the town and on the hills overlooking the sea.
Today’s Menton is a more bustling place, but it retains an air of relaxed joie de vivre. It’s undoubtedly influenced by its Italian neighbour but resolutely French. Smaller and more sedate than its famous neighbour Nice, a few kilometres round the coast. And less chi-chi than next door Monaco. However, this French Riviera beauty has so much going for it that it’s hard to know where to start singing its praises, but I think the lemons have it.
Lemon history
Lemons have been cultivated in Menton for 800 years. In the 14th century, the Grimaldis – who were at the time the ruling family of Monaco and Menton – built a summer palace facing the sea and they grew citrus fruits in the garden.
Lemons have been important to Menton ever since, and by the 19th century annual exports topped a whopping 35 million lemons. Production declined through the late 20th century until the unique flavour of the Menton lemons underwent a revival.
Lemon festival
In 1895 local hoteliers thought a carnival might entertain the British visitors. They can have had no idea how popular their idea would become. In 1928 the carnival included an exhibition of citrus fruits, and in 1934 this officially became the Fête du Citron®, the Lemon Festival, in honour of the city’s revered fruit.
Today’s Lemon Festival is a wildly wonderful and joyful extravaganza of colour and scent. Monumental fruit sculptures up to 10m (33ft) high are erected in public gardens in the centre of town. Made with a humongous 130 tons of oranges and lemons, they are an incredible sight. Every year has a different theme, in 2024 it was the Olympics, huge sculptures portraying Olympic athletes – rowers, swimmers, wrestlers all made from fruit! The 2025 theme is Journey to the Stars!
There are night-time parades called Les Corsos, with the streets taken over by bands, acrobats and dancers, and floats that feature dreamlike magical animals and giant creatures made from oranges and lemons. Confetti canons blast a colourful mist of rainbow-hued confetti over the happy crowds as upbeat music fills the air.
During the day there are shows, concerts and entertainment. It’s a feel good, fun and fantastic festival – when life gives you lemons at Menton, you’ll definitely be in a lemonade mood.
Though it’s a celebration of the Menton lemon, the fruit used to create the sculptures comes from Spain, far more economical for use in the floats but you can try the real thing at the many stalls that line the gardens, at the restaurants in town and by visiting producers in the hills. And afterwards, the festival fruit is sold to the locals to make jam!
Discover the lemons
One of the best ways to find out more about Menton’s unique lemons is to visit to La Casetta, the municipal citrus nursery which opens to the public during the Festival. This steeply terraced citrus grove flourishes in a magical setting, protected by the mountains as it overlooks the Mediterranean. The nursery boasts 120 different species. Centuries old olive trees grow alongside the lemons, mandarins and oranges which were ripe for eating in mid-winter when I visited.
“Menton lemons are unique because of the microclimate” the guide at the nursery explained. “Even in winter, the town basks in the sun and the steep cliffs shelter the groves from northern winds, while the sea provides humidity. The climate is the most important thing, then the care we provide, nurturing the lemons” he said proudly “it makes them the best in the world. No other lemons are as juicy as ours, and they have a unique perfume and taste. Have a bite!” He plucked a lemon from a tree, sliced it expertly and held out a wedge.
Now, ordinarily as we all know, biting into a lemon makes you wince at the sharpness, but these lemons are different. They bathe your taste buds in utterly delicious, delicate lemon flavour without the acid flinch. The guide smiled at my surprise “Menton lemons have IGP (Indication Géographique Protegée), an appellation, they’re like a fine wine. We call the little lemon beads ‘caviar’” he said. “Even the pith is edible, and very prized by chefs.”
He’s not exaggerating. Tests on Menton lemons grown elsewhere in the Mediterranean have proved that the variety grown in its native home does have more juice as well as a different perfume due to the unique chemical composition of the skin. And the finger-thick pith is soft and creamy. Top chefs around the world sing the praises of Menton lemons.
This heavenly garden is filled with the aroma of citrus fruits and the tranquility is interrupted only by the sound of an occasional plonk of oranges dropping from the fruit-stuffed trees or from bells ringing at a nearby church. Visit for the exquisite views, the fruit tasting, and to see these extraordinary terraces (visits in French only).
Menton French Riviera in winter
Menton’s beaches are among the most beautiful on the French Riviera and whilst you may not fancy a dip in winter, it’s often warm enough for a spot of sunbathing. Picturesque and sandy Plage des Sablettes is the busiest and most central of Menton’s beaches and is lined with restaurants and bars. Take a stroll along the Promenade de la Mer, a palm-tree lined avenue with great views over the town. Head to Quai Impératrice Eugenie, one of the most picturesque spots, where you can sit, dip your feet in the water, soak up the sun or enjoy a glorious sunset.
Tear yourself away from the beaches and head to the old town with its labyrinth of narrow, steep cobbled streets lined with buildings in every shade of ochre and yellow from pale apricot to flaming saffron, with shutters painted in strictly controlled shades of green and grey. One of the most iconic buildings is the 17th century lemon-coloured Baroque style Basilica of St Michael which sits atop a grand zigzag flamboyantly sunflower coloured staircase. Inside the magnificent ceiling frescoes, glorious chandeliers and rich décor are dazzling.
For a culture hit, Musée Jean Cocteau celebrates the work of renowned poet, playwright, novelist, designer, filmmaker and artist Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) with a permanent collection of his works, including drawings, ceramics, tapestries, and paintings. The museum is in a 17th-century fort which Cocteau decorated with beautiful murals and mosaics.
High on a hill sits Menton cemetery. An odd choice for a visit you might think but hear me out. This is a cemetery with astonishing views. Look south over the city to the sea and as far as Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, look east to see Italy, and to the north are the soaring Alps. The cemetery, built on the ruins of the ancient castle of Menton, is the last resting place of several prominent residents. It’s filled with statues, sculptures and monuments, and tombs that look like tiny villas. Much as the town grew organically over the centuries, the five levels of the cemetery simply spread out over time. You can’t miss the last resting place of William Web Ellis, his tomb is permanently honoured with rugby shirts and rugby balls left by fans.
From spring to early winter, bright pink and purple bougainvillea grows everywhere and orange and lemon trees thrive in gardens and streets year-round, but one of the best places to see them is at the beautiful Palais Carnolès. In 1717, Prince Antoine 1 of Monaco commissioned a summer palace to be built in the style of Versailles which is now the Museum of Fine Arts, and the Prince’s ornamental fruit grove contains the most important collection of citrus fruits in Europe – 137 varieties of citrus in a single site.
The locals say that the grass really is greener here and that’s not hard to believe because there are so many spellbinding gardens. One not to miss is Serre de la Madone, created by British botanist and garden designer Lawrence W. Johnston in the early 20th century – he also created the legendary Hidcote Manor Garden in England, though many consider the Menton garden even better than Hidcote. Take a guided tour, or simply get lost in the beauty of its gorgeous green alleys even in winter. It’s a lovely place to while away a few hours.
And for a more exotic garden, Val Rahmeh, complete with fountains, giant waterlily pond and plants from around the world is an absolute beauty.
Don’t miss the fabulous art-deco covered market Les Halles de Menton where you’ll find fabulous local produce from Monday to Sunday. Lemons flavour everything here and there are plenty of shops to indulge your new passion! Try lemon beer from Mentounasc, lemon everything at Au Pays du Citron – from jam to candles, and even lemon flavoured oil from L’Huilerie Sainte-Michel!
Where to eat out in Menton
You’re spoiled for choice in this gastronomic town that offers everything from Michelin starred restaurants to traditional Provençal cuisine.
Menton’s most famous restaurant is the 3 Michelin Starred Le Mirazur, run by chef Mauro Colagreco, awarded the title “best Restaurant in the world” in 2019 (Restaurant Magazine).
He also runs the La Pecora Negra pizzeria and, sitting in the sunshine overlooking the bay I couldn’t resist tucking into a cheese and lemon zest combo designed for the lemon festival, washed down with a lemon flavoured aperitif. A moment of unadulterated pleasure.
For seasonal dishes including superb fish and vegetarian dishes, made with local products, Le Petit Prince (lepetitprine-menton.fr) bistronomic restaurant, a stone’s throw from the sea, is outstanding.
Feast on the local speciality – barbajuan – deep-fried crispy ricotta cheese and Swiss chard filled pasta, a mix of Niçoise and Italian cuisine, that’s de rigeur as an appetizer. A culinary speciality of Monaco, the name means ‘Uncle Jean’ in Monégasque. There is a legend that a man called Jean who lived in Monaco, created the dish when he realised he had no sauce to go with his ravioli and decided to deep-fry them instead. His guests loved them, the recipe was shared, became immensely popular, and they were named in his honour. Try them at locals’ favourite – Entre II (2 Av. Boyer).
You’ll have no trouble understanding why aristocrats and the wealthy flocked here in winter – Menton is a joy!
Practical information:
For information about the Menton Lemon Festival and tickets for the night-time parades: feteducitron.com
Website for Menton Tourist Office where you can book guided tours, tasting tours, find details of garden visits restaurants, accommodation and more: menton-riviera-merveilles
Airport: Nice Cote d’Azur
Train: Paris to Menton via Nice takes from 6h 28m
Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com
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